The St John Trails

Two thirds of St John is national park, and the way to see it properly is on foot: something like forty kilometres of maintained trail cross the island, linking the north shore beaches with the ridge, the ruins of Danish colonial sugar estates, and dry forest full of hermit crabs and mongoose. The Reef Bay Trail is the best known, dropping from Centerline Road down through forest to a beach on the south coast, passing an estate ruin with a sugar factory and, on a short spur, a set of petroglyphs carved into rock beside a freshwater pool, their origin still argued over. The Lind Point and Caneel Hill trails start in Cruz Bay itself. Guided hikes with a boat pickup avoid the long climb back.

What you actually see

• The Reef Bay Trail - the descent through forest to the south coast beach.
• The petroglyphs - carvings beside a freshwater pool on a spur off the trail.
• Sugar estate ruins - Danish-era mills and factories in the forest.
• Ridge viewpoints - across the island to the British Virgin Islands.

When to go

December to April is the dry season and by far the best for walking; summer heat and humidity make the climbs punishing. Start early whatever the month. The ranger-led Reef Bay hike with a boat return is the sensible way to do that trail and books out.

Honest expectations

The Reef Bay Trail is downhill all the way in, which means a long, hot climb back unless you book the boat pickup. There is no water on the trails and little shade in places. Hurricanes have damaged sections in recent years and some trails have been closed or rerouted, so check current conditions at the visitor centre.

Nearby

Trunk Bay and the north shore beaches are on the same road; Cruz Bay has the visitor centre.