Nuku'alofa and Ancient Tongatapu

Nuku'alofa, the capital of Tonga on the main island of Tongatapu, is the seat of the last remaining Polynesian kingdom, a monarchy that, uniquely in the Pacific, was never colonised. This laid-back seaside town is home to the pretty white Victorian royal palace by the waterfront and the royal tombs, symbols of Tonga's proud independence and deep respect for its king. Tongatapu also holds echoes of a far older past: the Ha'amonga 'a Maui, a mysterious ancient stone trilithon of coral limestone sometimes called the Stonehenge of the Pacific, and the terraced Langi royal tombs of Tonga's ancient rulers.

What you actually see

• The Royal Palace - the white Victorian palace by the waterfront.
• Ha'amonga 'a Maui - the ancient stone trilithon of Tongatapu.
• The Langi tombs - the terraced tombs of the ancient kings.
• The town and market - the laid-back capital and Talamahu market.

When to go

May to October, the cooler, drier season, for the most pleasant weather; the capital and island are best explored by car or tour over a day. Note that Tonga is deeply Christian and observes Sunday strictly as a day of rest and worship, when almost everything closes, an interesting but limiting time to visit.

Honest expectations

Nuku'alofa is a small, low-key and, in places, run-down capital rather than a grand city, so its appeal is its royal heritage, the pride of an uncolonised kingdom and the ancient sites rather than blockbuster monuments, and the deeply observed Sunday shutdown limits activity. As the seat of the last Polynesian kingdom, with its royal palace, and home to the mysterious ancient trilithon and royal tombs, though, Tongatapu offers a fascinating window into Tonga's proud past and present.

Nearby

The south-coast blowholes, the ancient sites and the beaches are within reach.