Lomé

Lomé, the capital of Togo, is a relaxed and walkable seaside city stretched along the Gulf of Guinea, its long, palm-lined coastal boulevard fronting sandy beaches. A blend of faded German and French colonial architecture, lively markets and modern life, it centres on the huge, bustling Grand Marché, long dominated by the powerful market women, and holds cathedrals, museums and a monument to independence. Its most extraordinary and unsettling sight, though, is the Akodessewa fetish market on the edge of town, reputedly the largest voodoo market in the world, where stalls are piled with animal skulls, bones and ritual objects used in traditional Vodun medicine.

What you actually see

• The Grand Marché - the huge, bustling central market.
• The Akodessewa fetish market - the vast voodoo ritual market.
• The beaches and boulevard - the palm-lined coastal front.
• The colonial architecture - the faded German and French buildings.

When to go

November to February, the drier, cooler season, for the most comfortable weather to explore the city, markets and beaches; Lomé is a relatively relaxed and walkable West African capital. The Akodessewa fetish market is best visited with a guide, who arranges the customary fee and explains the ritual objects and traditions.

Honest expectations

Lomé is a modest, developing West African capital rather than a city of grand sights, and its beaches, while pleasant, can have strong currents and are more for strolling than swimming; the fetish market, while fascinating, involves animal remains that some find disturbing and should be approached with respect and a guide. As a relaxed, walkable capital with a huge market, coastal setting and the extraordinary window into Vodun culture at Akodessewa, though, Lomé is an intriguing base.

Nearby

The Koutammakou region, Lake Togo and the coast are within reach.