Umphang

Umphang is one of the most isolated districts in Thailand, tucked against the Myanmar border in southern Tak, and the road in is part of its identity: Highway 1090 from Mae Sot is known as the Sky Road or the road of 1,219 curves, a figure locals count and quote, taking four to five hours to cover about 160 kilometres. What is at the end is Thi Lo Su, the largest waterfall in Thailand - roughly 250 metres high and up to 450 metres wide in full flow, inside Umphang Wildlife Sanctuary, reached by rafting the Mae Klong river and then walking, or by a rough road in the dry season. The district also holds Karen villages, hot springs and further falls. Rafting and trekking are arranged through Umphang operators. Access to Thi Lo Su is restricted and the sanctuary closes the wet route at times; independent visits are not straightforward.

What you actually see

• The Sky Road - 1,219 counted bends between Mae Sot and Umphang.
• Thi Lo Su - Thailand's largest waterfall, around 250 metres high.
• The rafting approach - the Mae Klong river route in the wet season.
• The Karen villages - communities in the border hills around the town.

When to go

November to February. Thi Lo Su is fullest at the end of the rains but the wet-season route is by raft; the dry-season road access is rough. Sanctuary access can be restricted - check with operators.

Honest expectations

Getting there is four to five hours of continuous mountain bends and causes motion sickness in many people. Thi Lo Su access is regulated and sometimes closed. Facilities in Umphang are basic. Independent travel is difficult; most people use local operators.

Nearby

Mae Sot and the Myanmar border are north; Thi Lo Su is the main destination from the town.