Ubon Candle Festival

The festival marks Khao Phansa, the start of the three-month rains retreat in July, when candles are traditionally given to monasteries so monks have light through the period they remain in one place. Ubon took that offering and made it monumental: temple communities spend months building floats around a huge central candle, carved in beeswax into narrative reliefs, nagas, deities and figures - some carved directly into solid wax, others moulded and applied - reaching several metres and mounted on trailers. They are paraded through the city with dance troupes and music, judged, and displayed at Thung Si Mueang park. Carving can be watched at the participating temples in the weeks beforehand, which is arguably more interesting than the parade itself. Ubon fills for the festival and accommodation books out well ahead. It is very hot and the parade runs for hours.

What you actually see

• The wax floats - beeswax carved into narrative reliefs at several metres.
• The parade - floats through the city with dance troupes and music.
• The carving - visible at participating temples in the weeks beforehand.
• The Khao Phansa context - candles offered for the monks' rains retreat.

When to go

July, at Khao Phansa - the date follows the lunar calendar and moves each year. Arrive a few days early to watch the carving at the temples.

Honest expectations

Dates change yearly. Accommodation in Ubon books out well ahead. July is hot and wet, and the parade runs for hours in the sun. Viewing is crowded along the route.

Nearby

Ubon Ratchathani city is the venue; Khong Chiam and Pha Taem are east.