Sukhothai Historical Park

Sukhothai was the first capital of a unified Thai kingdom in the thirteenth century, remembered as a golden age of art and the birthplace of much that is distinctively Thai. Its serene ruins, gathered in a beautifully maintained historical park, include graceful walking Buddhas, elegant lotus-bud spires and temples reflected in lily-dotted ponds, a tranquil and evocative UNESCO site best explored by bicycle.

History

The traditions of the town's founding disagree and none is contemporary: one chronicle places it in 494, the Legend of the Arhat in 679, and Chinese records suggest that the area was subordinate to Si Thep between the 8th and 10th centuries. The town is generally thought to have been abandoned in the 9th and 10th centuries, is reported to have been taken in 957 by the Mon king Abhayakamini and to have declared its independence in 1017, and grew into a regional trading centre on routes linking the Mon, Tai and lower Chao Phraya states. A Khmer-style town appeared probably around 1200, with Angkorian monuments such as Ta Pha Daeng and Wat Phra Phai Luang, and later in the 13th century a much larger walled and moated town was built just to the south, the capital of the Sukhothai Kingdom in the 13th and 14th centuries (Wikipedia, Sukhothai Historical Park).

What to look for

• Wat Mahathat - the central temple with its rows of Buddhas and lotus spires.
• The walking Buddhas - the graceful figures unique to Sukhothai's art.
• Wat Si Chum - the huge seated Buddha in its tall chamber.
• The park by bicycle - the temples and ponds, best toured on two wheels.

When to go

November to February for the coolest weather for cycling the park; the Loi Krathong festival of floating lights, said to have originated here, lights up the ruins in November and is spectacular. Go early to beat the heat.

Practical notes

It is more remote and less visited than Ayutthaya, which is part of its serene charm but means more effort to reach, usually a flight or long bus. The park is large, so a bicycle is the way to see it, and the sun is hot. It is tranquil and beautiful rather than dramatic.

Nearby

The ruins of Si Satchanalai are nearby; Chiang Mai is to the north.

Key facts