Ratchaburi Dragon Jars

The ong mangkon, dragon jar, is a large glazed stoneware water jar in brown with a dragon modelled in relief around the shoulder, made in Ratchaburi from the 1930s when Chinese potters from Guangdong set up kilns using the local clay. Before piped water they were in every Thai household for storing rainwater, and production ran into the millions; demand collapsed with plumbing, and the surviving kilns now make them for gardens, decoration and export alongside other ware. Several workshops along the Mae Klong are open to visit, with throwing, dragon modelling, glazing and dragon kilns visible, and the jars are sold at the gate at a fraction of retail. The Tao Hong Tai ceramics factory has a contemporary arts space, d Kunst, in its old kiln buildings. Ratchaburi has painted the jars into a civic identity and they appear as public sculpture through the town.

What you actually see

• The dragon relief - modelled by hand around the shoulder of each jar.
• The working kilns - throwing, glazing and firing visible at the workshops.
• The Chinese origin - Guangdong potters who set up here in the 1930s.
• The civic emblem - jars used as public sculpture across the town.

When to go

November to February, weekday working hours when the kilns are active. Two hours covers a workshop visit. A car is needed to reach the riverside kilns.

Honest expectations

Working factories rather than visitor centres - ask before entering or photographing. Jars are extremely heavy and shipping is the practical obstacle to buying one. Little English spoken.

Nearby

Damnoen Saduak floating market is south-east; the Ratchaburi National Museum is in the town.