Jiufen

Jiufen is one of the most atmospheric and enchanting towns in Taiwan, a former gold-mining settlement clinging to a steep hillside above the northeast coast. Its narrow, stepped lanes, especially the old market street, are a magical warren of traditional teahouses, food stalls and shops, strung with glowing red lanterns and packed with atmosphere, especially at dusk. Its nostalgic charm and lantern-lit teahouses are widely said to have helped inspire the bathhouse in the beloved animated film Spirited Away, drawing fans from across Asia.

What you actually see

• The old street - the lantern-strung lanes of teahouses and stalls.
• The teahouses - the atmospheric old teahouses with sea views.
• The lanterns at dusk - the red lanterns glowing as evening falls.
• The hillside and sea views - the outlook over the coast.

When to go

October to April, the cooler, drier season, for the most comfortable weather, as it can be rainy and misty in the hills, which is atmospheric but wet; dusk is the magical hour when the lanterns glow, so time a visit for late afternoon into evening.

Honest expectations

Its fame, boosted by the Spirited Away association, has made it extremely popular, so the narrow old street can be shoulder-to-shoulder with crowds, especially at weekends and dusk; a weekday helps. It is often misty and rainy in the hills. Despite the crowds, the lantern-lit lanes and old teahouses at dusk are genuinely magical, and the tea and snacks are a delight.

Nearby

The old mining town of Jinguashi, the coast and Taipei are within reach.