Qalaat al-Kahf

Qalaat al-Kahf, the Castle of the Cave, is the most dramatic of the Ismaili strongholds: a ridge deep in the coastal mountains where the defences are half masonry and half living rock, with a rock-cut entrance tunnel, cisterns and chambers carved into the stone, and forested slopes falling away on every side. It was among the last castles of its network to pass to outside control, and it feels remote even now - the point of a visit is as much the mountain country as the ruins.

What you actually see

• The rock-cut gate - the entrance passage carved through stone.
• The carved chambers - rooms and cisterns cut into the ridge.
• The ridge walls - masonry growing out of the rock.
• The forested gorges - the green mountain country around it.

When to go

April to June and September to November are best in the mountains. Paths are slippery after rain. Summer is pleasant at altitude.

Honest expectations

The approach is long, winding and poorly signed, and the final walk is rough; a local guide is worth having. The ruins are unfenced above drops. Facilities are absent.

Nearby

Masyaf is east, and the coast at Tartus is west.