Absinthe in the Val-de-Travers

Absinthe was first distilled commercially in this narrow Jura valley at the end of the eighteenth century, from wormwood, anise and fennel growing on the slopes above it. Switzerland banned the drink in 1910 and the valley carried on making it quietly for most of a century, passing round a clear unbottled spirit known locally as la bleue, until the ban was lifted in 2005 and the distillers came out into the open. Around a dozen small producers now work legally along the valley, and a museum in Motiers, set in the former courthouse, explains the plants, the process and the long years underground. The proper serving is with iced water poured slowly until the drink turns cloudy.

What you actually see

• The museum at Motiers - the valley's absinthe collection, in its former courthouse.
• The plants - wormwood, anise and fennel, still grown on the slopes here.
• The distilleries - about a dozen small producers, most open by arrangement.
• La bleue - the clear unsweetened local style, served with iced water.

When to go

Summer and early autumn, when the wormwood is standing and the valley paths are open, and a summer festival is held at the old drying house at Boveresse. Distilleries are small family operations and most want a booking a day or two ahead. The museum keeps regular hours and closes on Monday for much of the year.

Honest expectations

The valley is remote, the train up from Neuchatel is slow, and once the distilling is seen there is not a great deal else to do. Absinthe is strong and the tasting culture is serious rather than casual, so anyone who dislikes anise will hate every glass. Opening hours are irregular in a way that catches people out.

Nearby

The Creux du Van escarpment stands on the ridge above the valley.