Ratnapura

Ratnapura means city of gems, and the valley floors around it hold gravels rich in corundum, which is dug out of shafts sunk by hand and washed in wicker baskets in the streams, much as it has been for centuries. Blue sapphires are the best known but the range is wide. Trading happens informally on the streets and in dealers' rooms in the morning, and several museums and working mines take visitors.

Background

The name joins the Sanskrit words ratna, gemstone, and pura, town. Ratnapura is the capital of Sabaragamuwa Province and of Ratnapura District, and it stands on the Kalu Ganga, the Black River, some 101 km southeast of Colombo. Besides sapphires, the area yields rubies, and gems are traded at three main markets, Abagahamula, Clock Tower and Demuwamawatha. The district also produces rice and fruit, and tea and rubber plantations surround the city, the tea being known as low-country tea. A local candy made from the jaggery palm is called ratnapura, probably after the town. The population rose from 4,084 in 1901 to around 100,000 by a 2021 estimate.

Source: Wikipedia, "Ratnapura"

What's there

• The hand-dug pits - shafts sunk into the gravel and worked with basket and pump.
• The washing - gravel sorted in wicker baskets in the streams.
• The street trading - dealers doing business openly in the mornings.
• The gem museums - collections and cutting demonstrations in the town.

When to go

January to March is the driest window; the area gets very heavy rain otherwise. Trading is a morning activity. Mine visits should be arranged.

What to expect

Buying gems here without expertise is a good way to be cheated; certification and knowledge matter and tourist-oriented shops overcharge heavily. Mine conditions are hard and the visits can feel intrusive. The town floods in heavy rain.

Nearby

Bopath Ella is north, and Sinharaja is southeast.

Key facts