Lagos

Lagos spreads across a lagoon and the islands in it, and the geography explains the city: Lagos Island and Isale Eko hold the old commercial core, Ikoyi and Victoria Island the money, Lekki the newer expansion east along the peninsula, and the mainland the great bulk of the population. It is the centre of Afrobeats, of Nollywood, and of a contemporary art scene with serious galleries. The New Afrika Shrine in Ikeja, run by Fela Kuti's family, and the Kalakuta Republic Museum in his former house are the fixed points for the music; Nike Art Gallery in Lekki and the Rele and Kó galleries for art; Lekki market and Balogun for shopping; Tarkwa Bay, reached by boat, for the beach.

What you actually see

• The New Afrika Shrine - the venue and the Kalakuta museum in Fela's house.
• The art galleries - Nike, Rele and the contemporary scene.
• Lagos Island - the old commercial core and Balogun market.
• Tarkwa Bay - the sheltered beach reached by boat from the marina.

When to go

November to March in the dry season; the rains from April to July are heavy and flood parts of the city. Felabration in October fills the Shrine for a week. Traffic is at its worst on weekday mornings and evenings.

Honest expectations

Traffic congestion is extreme and a cross-city journey can take hours; plan around it rather than through it. Prices in Victoria Island and Lekki are high. Ocean beaches have dangerous rip currents; Tarkwa Bay is the sheltered option. Power cuts are routine.

Nearby

Badagry lies west; Lekki conservation centre and Epe are east.