Zahara de la Sierra

Zahara occupies a rock spur in the Sierra de Grazalema with a twelfth-century Moorish keep on the summit above it, and the village drops down the slope in whitewashed terraces to the shore of the Zahara-El Gastor reservoir, whose water takes a strong turquoise colour from suspended limestone. The castle was taken by the Christians in 1483 in the campaign that led to the fall of Granada, and the climb to the tower takes about twenty minutes on a stepped path. Below, the reservoir has a bathing area used in summer. The village sits inside the Sierra de Grazalema natural park, and the Garganta Verde gorge, one of the park's best walks, starts a short drive away.

What you actually see

• The Moorish keep - a twelfth-century tower on the rock above the village.
• The turquoise reservoir - limestone-coloured water below the slope.
• The white terraces - the village dropping down the spur.
• The park setting - Sierra de Grazalema peaks around the valley.

When to go

Spring for green hills and full water, autumn for clear light; summer is hot but the reservoir bathing area is usable. Grazalema is the wettest part of Spain, so winter and spring bring real rain.

Honest expectations

The climb to the keep is steep and stepped with no shade. Parking in the village is very limited. The reservoir level drops noticeably in drought years, which changes the view considerably.

Nearby

Grazalema and the Garganta Verde gorge are close; Setenil and Ronda lie southeast.