Villa Pehuenia

Villa Pehuenia sits on a peninsula in Lago Aluminé in the far north of Neuquén, in country dominated by the pehuén, the monkey puzzle tree, which grows here in extensive forests and gives the village its name. The setting is quieter and less developed than the lake district further south: cabins among the trees, a handful of restaurants, and shorelines on Aluminé and Moquehue lakes. Above the village the Batea Mahuida ski area occupies the flank of a volcano and is run by the Puel Mapuche community, making it unusual in Argentina, small in scale with a few lifts and snow park facilities. In summer the same slopes are walked for views over the lakes and toward the Chilean border.

History

Mapuche people moved into the region from Chile in the 18th century, absorbing the earlier inhabitants and holding it until the late 19th century, and logging first brought settlers of European origin. The village was created only in 1989, with 155 people, and tourism had raised its population to 1,611 by 2010; the Puel community, of Mapuche origin, still lives here (Wikipedia, Villa Pehuenia).

What's there

• The monkey puzzle forests - pehuén stands around the lakes and village.
• Lagos Aluminé and Moquehue - clear lakes with beaches and boat access.
• Batea Mahuida - the Mapuche-run ski area on the volcano flank.
• The Mapuche communities - craft sales, guiding and food in the area.

When to go

December to March for lakes, hiking and warm days; July and August for the small ski season. Autumn colours the deciduous forest between. Access roads include gravel stretches that are slow in any season.

What to expect

This is a remote corner with limited services, few shops and long drives from the main lake district. The ski area is small and its season depends heavily on snowfall. Gravel roads and dust are constant in summer.

Nearby

Aluminé lies southeast; the Chilean border and passes are close to the west.

Key facts