Manchego Cheese

Manchego is made only from the milk of Manchega sheep, a hardy breed suited to the dry plains, and the protected name covers four provinces of Castilla-La Mancha. The rind carries two marks that identify it: a herringbone zigzag around the side, left by the plaited esparto grass bands once used as moulds, and a wheat-ear pattern pressed into the flat faces. Age changes it completely. At two or three months, semicurado is pale, springy and mild. Curado at six months dries and sharpens, and older wheels turn brittle, salty and nutty. It is served in wedges with the rind cut off, often with quince paste alongside.

What to look for

• The herringbone rind - the zigzag left by esparto grass moulds around the side.
• The wheat-ear faces - the pattern pressed into the flat top and bottom.
• Age comparison - semicurado, curado and aged wheels tasted side by side.
• Manchega flocks - the sheep themselves, grazing thin plains around the dairies.

When to go

Any time of year. Dairies that receive visitors want an appointment and generally run mornings only. Spring and autumn are the sensible seasons for driving La Mancha, since summer on the plain is flat, treeless and very hot. Autumn saffron harvest in the same region makes a good pairing for a food-focused trip.

Good to know

Most cheese sold abroad as manchego is not the protected article, and side by side the difference is obvious, which can be deflating in reverse. Dairies open to visitors are scattered and need a car and a booking. La Mancha itself is flat, hot and short on distractions. Aged wheels are expensive by the kilo and too salty for some.

Nearby

The windmill ridges at Consuegra and Campo de Criptana, Toledo and the saffron villages.