Jumunjin Seafood Market

Jumunjin is one of the larger fishing ports on the east coast and its market is genuinely a working one - the auction hall runs in the early morning for the trade, and the retail market alongside sells what comes off the boats: squid, crab, flatfish, pollock, sea squirt, and the dried and salted lines the region is known for. The way it works for a visitor is worth knowing before arriving. You buy your fish live from a tank at one of the stalls, agree the price, and then take it to a preparation counter which charges a separate fee per person for slicing it into hoe, plus side dishes, and a room to sit in. Two transactions, two bills. Prices are by weight and are negotiable at the margins. The port itself, the breakwater and the beach north of it are pleasant to walk, and the whole thing is more ordinary and less staged than Sokcho.

What you actually see

• The retail tanks - live fish bought by weight at the stalls.
• The preparation counters - separate fee for slicing and a seat.
• The auction hall - the trade side, in the early morning.
• The port and breakwater - the working harbour around it.

When to go

Autumn and winter for crab and squid; early morning for the auction. Weekday mornings are calmest. Storms keep the boats in and thin the market.

Honest expectations

Two separate charges catch people out - the fish, then the slicing and seating. Agree the price before anything is netted. There is little English and it is a workplace, not an attraction.

Nearby

Jumunjin beach, Gangneung and Jeongdongjin are along the coast.