Chodang Sundubu Village

Chodang is a village on the edge of Gangneung between the lagoon and the sea, and its tofu is made by curdling the soy milk with clean seawater drawn from just offshore rather than with the usual brine or gypsum. The result is a softer, slightly sweeter curd with a faint mineral edge, and it is eaten as sundubu - the uncoagulated curd, served hot in an earthenware bowl, plain or in a spicy stew with seafood. Tradition credits the practice to a sixteenth-century local official, though the village as a food destination dates from the twentieth century. There are around twenty restaurants, several run by the same families for generations, and the standard order is a set: plain sundubu, the spicy stew, a block of firm tofu with kimchi, and rice. Most open early, because tofu is made in the morning and is best the same day. Gyeongpo lake and beach are a short walk away.

What you actually see

• Seawater-set tofu - curdled with sea water, softer and slightly sweet.
• The sundubu bowl - hot uncoagulated curd, plain or in stew.
• The restaurant row - about twenty places, several family-run for generations.
• The morning making - tofu produced daily and eaten fresh.

When to go

Any season, best when cold. Go early - tofu is made in the morning and the good places sell out or close in the afternoon. Weekends are busy.

Honest expectations

It is a row of restaurants in an ordinary neighbourhood, not a scenic village. Plain sundubu is subtle and some visitors find it bland. Little English; sets are the simplest thing to order.

Nearby

Gyeongpo lake and beach, Ojukheon and Seongyojang are all close.