Souk El Had, Agadir

Agadir was rebuilt from nothing in the 1960s after an earthquake destroyed the old town, so it has no medina, and Souk El Had is the closest thing the city has to one. It is a walled rectangle with numbered gates and thousands of stalls inside, laid out roughly by trade: fruit and vegetables from the irrigated Souss plain in one section, meat and fish in another, then spices, dates, olives, argan oil, honey, pottery, clothing, tools and household goods. It was reorganised and rebuilt in the 2010s, so the alleys are wider and cleaner than in older markets, with covered rows and signposted gates. It is a market for residents first, which keeps prices and stock closer to real life than in a tourist souk, though the sections nearest the main gates are aimed squarely at visitors.

What you actually see

• The produce rows - fruit and vegetables from the irrigated Souss plain, in bulk.
• The spice and date stalls - pyramids of spices, dried fruit and preserved lemons.
• The argan and honey sellers - regional oil and honey sold from behind the counter.
• The numbered gates - the walled rectangle with signposted entrances by section.

When to go

Mornings for produce and fish, when everything is fresh and the aisles are busiest. The market closes on Mondays and is at its fullest at weekends. Any season works, as much of it is covered, though the open aisles are hot at midday in summer.

Honest expectations

It is very large and, without a plan, you will walk in circles; the gates look alike from inside. The stalls nearest the tourist gates sell the same souvenirs at inflated opening prices and expect hard bargaining. The meat and fish sections are not for the squeamish. The crush at peak hours is tight enough that bags are best carried in front.

Nearby

The Agadir beachfront and marina are a short taxi ride; the Souss valley and Taroudant lie inland.