Jirisan National Park

Jirisan was the first national park declared in South Korea and remains the largest on the mainland, a long massif spreading across three provinces, with Cheonwangbong, the highest peak on the mainland, at its eastern end. Serious walkers take on the ridge traverse, two or three days along the crest between mountain shelters that must be booked in advance and provide a bunk, a floor and not much else. Everyone else uses one of the valley approaches: the temples of Hwaeomsa and Ssanggyesa sit at the foot of the mountain, the Baemsagol valley offers a straightforward walk beside water, and Nogodan is reached with far less effort for high meadows and, in early summer, azaleas.

What you actually see

• Cheonwangbong - the summit at the eastern end of the range, climbed from Jungsan-ri.
• The ridge traverse - the multi-day crest walk between the mountain shelters.
• Hwaeomsa temple - the large old temple in the forest at the western foot of the range.
• Baemsagol valley - the easy walk up a wooded valley beside pools and rapids.

When to go

Late spring for azaleas on the high ridge and autumn for colour and stable weather. Shelter bookings open on a set schedule and fill within minutes for autumn weekends, so plan months out for the traverse. Winter is a serious undertaking with snow and short days. Summer is humid and brings heavy monsoon rain.

Honest expectations

This is a big mountain and it is treated as one: the summit climb from Jungsan-ri is a hard day, the traverse is long, and the shelters are basic, unheated in places and noisy with dozens of people on shared platforms. Booking is competitive and rangers turn back walkers who reach checkpoints after the cut-off time. Cloud sits on the ridge for much of the year.

Nearby

The tea slopes of Hadong and the town of Namwon lie at the foot of the range, and Jinju is an hour away.