Geumjeongsanseong Fortress

Geumjeongsanseong runs about eighteen kilometres around the ridges of Geumjeongsan above Busan, which makes it the longest fortress wall in the country - built in its present form in 1703 to guard the southern coast, with four main gates, of which the East, West, South and North gates all stand restored. Nobody walks the whole circuit casually; the usual outings are the South Gate to North Gate section, three hours or so along the ridge, or the cable car up from Geumgang Park and a shorter loop from there. The ridge is granite with wide views over the city on one side and the Nakdong on the other, and the walk is popular enough that the paths are worn and well signed. Inside the walls at the North Gate area is a village known for its own style of makgeolli and for black goat, which for a good many local walkers is the actual destination.

What you actually see

• The ridge wall - eighteen kilometres, gates restored.
• The four gates - South, North, East and West.
• The city and river views - Busan one side, the Nakdong the other.
• The fortress village - makgeolli and goat restaurants inside the walls.

When to go

April to June and September to November. Weekends are very busy - this is Busan's main hiking hill. Summer is hot with limited shade on the granite.

Honest expectations

The wall is largely restored. Distances are longer than they look on a map and there is real ascent; plan a section, not the circuit. Free, but the cable car is ticketed and queues at weekends.

Nearby

Beomeosa is on the eastern flank; Oncheonjang hot springs are at the foot.