Taejongdae

Taejongdae occupies the southern tip of Yeongdo, the island suburb across the bridge from Busan's old harbour, where pine forest ends in cliffs dropping straight into the sea. A looping road runs around the headland through the trees, walkable in an hour or covered by an open road train that stops at the lighthouse, the observation deck and the viewpoint above Sinseon Rock, a broad flat shelf of stone at the foot of the cliff. Steps lead down to the water, where stalls sell shellfish and small boats leave for short trips along the coast. On a genuinely clear day the outline of Tsushima can be made out across the strait.

What you actually see

• The cliffs and lighthouse - the white lighthouse on the rocks at the southern point.
• Sinseon Rock - the flat stone shelf at the base of the cliff, reached by steps.
• The park loop - the wooded road circuit, on foot or by open road train.
• The observation deck - the platform looking out over the strait and passing ships.

When to go

Spring and autumn are the most comfortable for the loop walk, and clear winter days give the longest views across the strait. Mornings are quieter. The road train runs frequently but queues at weekends. Fog rolls in off the sea in early summer and can shut the view down completely within minutes.

Honest expectations

The loop is a paved road shared with the train and other walkers, so it is a stroll rather than a hike, and the uphill sections are steeper than they look. The steps down to Sinseon Rock are long and the climb back is the sting. Weekends are busy, the food stalls are touristy, and in fog there is nothing to see at all.

Nearby

The Yeongdo bridge, Jagalchi fish market and Gamcheon's hillside lanes are all on the other side of the water.