Changdeokgung Palace and the Secret Garden

Changdeokgung is the loveliest of Seoul's royal palaces and the one where the kings of the Joseon dynasty most liked to live, and it is a World Heritage Site. What distinguishes it is that, unlike the more formal and symmetrical Gyeongbokgung, it was laid out to follow the contours of the hillside rather than impose a rigid plan on it, so its halls, pavilions and gates unfold naturally across the slope in harmony with the landscape. Its greatest treasure is the Huwon, the rear or Secret Garden, a vast wooded garden of lotus ponds, pavilions and ancient trees that was the private preserve of the royal family, entered only on a timed guided tour that limits numbers and keeps it tranquil. In autumn its maples turn brilliant red and gold, and in spring it blossoms; at any season it is one of the most beautiful places in the city.

What you actually see

• Injeongjeon - the palace's main throne hall.
• The Secret Garden (Huwon) - the wooded royal garden of ponds and pavilions, by guided tour.
• The harmony with the terrain - the way the halls follow the natural hillside.
• Autumn and spring colour - maples and blossom through the garden and grounds.

When to go

Spring and autumn are the most beautiful, with blossom or blazing maple colour in the garden; these are also the busiest times, so the timed Secret Garden tickets sell out and are worth booking ahead. Weekday mornings are quietest. The palace closes on Mondays.

Honest expectations

The Secret Garden can only be seen on a guided tour with limited daily places and set times, so without planning you may miss it, which is the highlight; book the timed ticket in advance in peak season. Tours are given in several languages but on a schedule. The palace is busy at peak bloom and colour. Combining it with the neighbouring Bukchon village and other palaces makes a full but rewarding day.

Nearby

Gyeongbokgung palace and Bukchon Hanok Village are within walking distance; Insadong's craft street is close.