Busosanseong Fortress

Baekje moved its capital to Sabi - modern Buyeo - in 538, and Busosanseong is the fortified hill immediately behind the palace ground, a last refuge and a lookout over the river. What survives is earth rampart rather than stone wall, running about two and a half kilometres round the wooded hill, with the sites of storage pits, gates and buildings marked along it and pavilions at the viewpoints. Paths loop through pine and oak, and the walk is gentle. On the far side above the water are Goran-sa, a small temple with a spring, and Nakhwaam, the cliff over the Baengma. The fortress is part of the Baekje Historic Areas inscribed by UNESCO in 2015. A boat runs from below Goran-sa back to the town side, which is the pleasant way to finish. Buyeo is a small country town and the fortress is effectively its park, used daily by residents walking.

What you actually see

• The earth ramparts - the wooded bank round the hill.
• The excavated sites - storage pits and gate positions marked.
• Goran-sa - the small temple and spring above the river.
• The river boat - the return crossing from below the cliff.

When to go

April to June and September to November. Autumn colour on the hill is good. Mornings are quiet; it is a local walking park as much as a monument.

Honest expectations

There is no standing fortification - this is earthwork and woodland, and the interest is historical. Ticketed. The Buyeo National Museum supplies the context and is a separate visit.

Nearby

Nakhwaam and Goran-sa are on the hill; Gungnamji pond and the museum are in the town.