Cape Malay Cuisine

Cape Malay food was made by people brought to the Cape from the Indonesian archipelago, India and Madagascar from the 1650s onward as slaves and political exiles, and it is the single largest influence on what South Africa cooks. The character is aromatic rather than hot - cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, turmeric, fennel and coriander, used generously, with dried fruit and a little sugar balancing the sourness of tamarind or vinegar. Bredies are slow stews, of lamb with tomato, green beans or waterblommetjies. Denningvleis is lamb soured with tamarind. Sosaties are skewers marinated in curry and apricot. On the sweet side, koesisters - not to be confused with Afrikaans koeksisters - are spiced doughy balls rolled in coconut, eaten on Sunday mornings. The Bo-Kaap, the steep painted quarter below Signal Hill, is where to eat it, and several families run cooking classes in their own homes.

What you actually see

• Aromatic, not hot - cinnamon, cardamom and cloves rather than chilli heat.
• Bredies and denningvleis - slow lamb stews, one soured with tamarind.
• Koesisters - spiced coconut-rolled balls, distinct from Afrikaans koeksisters.
• The Bo-Kaap - the quarter where the cooking is still domestic and taught.

When to go

All year. Half a day for a class and a meal. Ramadan changes hours and menus.

Honest expectations

Many restaurants labelled Cape Malay serve a diluted tourist version - home kitchens and classes are better. The sweetness in savoury dishes is not to everyone's taste. Bo-Kaap residents are increasingly frustrated by photographers on their doorsteps; ask before photographing houses. Most kitchens are halal and do not serve alcohol.

Nearby

The Bo-Kaap sits below Signal Hill; the city centre is downhill east.