Subotica

Subotica sits at the top of Serbia near the Hungarian border, and at the turn of the twentieth century it built itself in the Hungarian secession style, a regional art nouveau full of folk motifs, coloured Zsolnay ceramic tile, floral ironwork and stained glass. The town hall of 1910 is the centrepiece, an enormous building with a tower, a council chamber of stained glass and a green tiled roof. The synagogue, completed in 1902 and restored over many years, is one of the finest surviving art nouveau synagogues anywhere, its interior a composition of blue, gold and floral glass. Around them the centre has a Raichle Palace of extravagant brick and tile, and Lake Palić nearby has its own secession pavilions in a lakeside park.

What you actually see

• The synagogue - restored art nouveau interior in blue, gold and floral stained glass.
• The town hall - the 1910 building with tower, council chamber and tiled roof.
• Raichle Palace - an extravagant secession house, now a gallery.
• Lake Palić - lakeside park with secession pavilions, a short trip from town.

When to go

April to October; the Vojvodina plain is hot in July and August and cold and grey in winter. The town hall tower and interior are shown on guided tours at set times, so check the schedule on arrival.

Honest expectations

The town hall interior and tower are accessible only on timed guided tours, and outside them you see the exterior only. Beyond the secession buildings the town is a quiet provincial centre and half a day covers the highlights. Restoration of individual buildings is uneven, with some gems still shabby.

Nearby

Lake Palić is 8 km away; Novi Sad is around an hour and a half south.