The Saudi Red Sea

Saudi Arabia holds a very long stretch of Red Sea coast that, because the country was effectively closed to tourism until 2019, has seen a fraction of the diving pressure of the Egyptian side. The reefs reflect it: hard coral in good condition, walls, and wrecks including a large cargo ship at Yanbu sitting almost intact. Whale sharks aggregate seasonally off Al Lith in the south, and manta and reef sharks are regular. Infrastructure is younger and thinner than in Egypt or Jordan, with dive centres concentrated around Jeddah, Yanbu and a handful of liveaboards, and enormous new coastal developments under construction along the north. For divers, the appeal is straightforward: reefs with nobody on them.

What you actually see

• Yanbu wrecks and reefs - including a large intact cargo wreck close to shore.
• Whale sharks off Al Lith - seasonal aggregations in the south.
• Untouched hard coral - reef in condition rarely seen on the busier side of the Red Sea.
• Liveaboard routes - multi-day trips to offshore reefs with almost no other traffic.

When to go

October to May, when water and air temperatures are comfortable; summer air temperatures on this coast are extreme. Whale shark season in the south runs roughly in spring, varying year to year.

Honest expectations

Infrastructure is immature: fewer operators, less competition on price, and standards that vary, so choose a centre carefully and check certification. Boat access to some areas requires permits. Modest dress applies on land and, for women, swimwear norms vary considerably by location, so check with the operator rather than assuming. Massive coastal construction is under way in the north and affects some sites.

Nearby

Jeddah's old town of Al Balad is the main city base; AlUla lies inland to the northeast.