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Roça Agostinho Neto

The largest plantation estate on São Tomé, now a village living in its ruins.

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WhereSão Tomé
Nearest citySão Tomé
Best seasonJune to September
Time to allowTwo hours
Getting thereAround fifteen kilometres north of São Tomé town; road access
EntryFree; guide expected

Roça Rio do Ouro, renamed Agostinho Neto after independence, was the largest of the São Tomé plantations, laid out on a scale that included a hospital with an operating theatre, a chapel, a narrow gauge railway and rows of workers' quarters, all built to run a cocoa estate on contract labour brought from Angola, Cabo Verde and Mozambique. Families live in the buildings now and the whole thing is decaying around them.

What you actually see

  • The hospital - the estate infirmary with its operating theatre, now ruined.
  • The workers' quarters - the sanzalas the contract labourers were housed in.
  • The scale - the largest of all the São Tomé estates.
  • The living village - families occupying the buildings as they decay.

When to go

June to September is the drier gravana season. The estate is lived in and accessible at any time. Rain makes the ground difficult.

Honest expectations

People live here and the estate is not a museum; a guide from the community is expected and photography needs asking. Buildings are unsafe in places. The history is one of forced and contract labour and is not comfortable.

Nearby

São Tomé town is south, and Água Izé is southeast.

What to pack for Roça Agostinho Neto

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Opening times, ticket prices and seasonal closures change - check the official source before you go: official site.

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