Soufrière

Soufrière was founded by the French in 1746 and was the island's capital before Castries took over, and it sits in the most dramatic position on Saint Lucia: a bay with Petit Piton rising directly at one end and the geothermal field steaming in the hills behind. The town is small, with a square, a church, and streets of wooden buildings with fretwork balconies in the French Caribbean manner, a good many of them in poor repair. Fishing boats are drawn up on the beach. It is a working town rather than a resort, and the contrast with the luxury properties on the surrounding hillsides is stark.

What you actually see

• The bay position - Petit Piton rising straight out of the water at one end.
• The wooden balconies - French Caribbean fretwork on the older buildings.
• The square and church - the centre of the town.
• The fishing beach - boats drawn up in front of the town.

When to go

December to April is the dry season. Mornings are when the fishing boats come in and the market is busiest. Cruise ships tender into the bay on some days, which fills the town for a few hours.

Honest expectations

Much of the historic fabric is in poor repair and the town has struggled economically. Hustling from unofficial guides and boat operators is persistent along the waterfront. The contrast between the town and the hillside resorts above it is uncomfortable and worth thinking about. Facilities are basic.

Nearby

The Sulphur Springs are ten minutes inland; the Pitons are either side of the bay.