Anse La Raye

Anse La Raye is a small fishing village halfway down the west coast, a grid of a few streets of wooden houses between the hills and a dark-sand bay with boats pulled up on it. On Friday evenings the main street closes to traffic and the village holds a fish fry: grills and pots set up along the road, whole fish, lobster in season, crab backs, bakes and green fig salad, with music and the whole village out. It is smaller and considerably less packaged than the Gros Islet street party in the north, and the food is the point rather than the drinking.

History

The name means Bay of Rays, after the rays found in the bay, into which two rivers flow. Records show a chapel here from 1765, the present Catholic church, with murals by the St Omer family, was built in 1907, and the youth music groups formed under Petronilla Deterville have performed since 1981 (Wikipedia, Anse La Raye).

What to look for

• The Friday fish fry - the main street closed and given over to grills.
• Lobster and crab backs - the specialities, in season.
• The fishing beach - boats drawn up on the dark sand.
• The village streets - wooden houses between the hills and the bay.

When to go

Friday evenings from around six o'clock, year-round. December to April is the dry season. Lobster is in season from around September to April and should not be sold outside it. Arrive early for the best of the food.

Things to know

It is small and the food runs out; arriving late means slim pickings. Lobster has a closed season and buying it outside that window is not on. The village is poor and the fish fry is a significant part of its income, which is a reason to eat rather than just look. The coast road is narrow and winding.

Nearby

Marigot Bay is fifteen minutes north; Soufrière is 40 minutes south.

Key facts