Cotnari Vineyards

Cotnari lies on south-facing slopes in the Moldavian hills, and vines have been grown here since at least the time of Stephen the Great, whose court took the wine seriously enough for it to be recorded and exported. The region works almost entirely with local grape varieties rather than international ones: Grasă de Cotnari, which develops noble rot in good autumns and gives the sweet wines the area is known for, along with Tămâioasă Românească, Frâncușă and Fetească Albă. The sweet Grasă wines age for decades and were the region's reputation abroad before the twentieth century interrupted the trade. Large-scale production dominates today, with the main winery offering tours and tastings, while smaller producers have appeared in the last decade. The landscape is gentle, hills of vines and villages, and the drive out from Iași passes the Hârlău princely church.

What you actually see

• Hill vineyards - south-facing slopes planted with local varieties.
• Cellar tours - tanks, barrels and tasting rooms at the main winery.
• Grasă de Cotnari - the noble-rot sweet wine the region is known for.
• Village landscape - Moldavian hills, orchards and small settlements.

When to go

May to October, with harvest in September and October the most interesting time to visit. Tastings run year-round by arrangement. Autumn colour in the vineyards is good. Book cellar visits ahead, particularly outside the summer.

Honest expectations

This is production country rather than a polished wine-tourism region: facilities are limited, English is not guaranteed, and casual drop-ins may not be accommodated without a booking. The sweet style dominates and is not to every palate. Public transport is impractical, and tasting means someone must drive.

Nearby

Iași is an hour southeast; the Bucovina monasteries lie northwest.