Cayo Icacos and La Cordillera

La Cordillera is a string of small uninhabited cays running east from Fajardo, protected as a nature reserve, and Icacos is the largest and the one most trips head for: a low sandy island with a long white beach on its sheltered side and reef close enough to swim to from shore. There are no facilities of any kind, which is the appeal, and boats anchor off while people wade in. Palominitos, smaller still, is a sandbar with a handful of palms that has become the standard postcard. Terns and pelicans nest on the outer cays, and green turtles feed in the seagrass. Catamarans run day trips with gear included, and local boatmen do drop-offs.

What you actually see

• Icacos beach - a long white sand beach with no buildings on it.
• Palominitos - the tiny palm-topped sandbar off Palomino.
• Snorkelling the reef - coral close in from the shore.
• Nesting seabirds - terns and pelicans on the outer cays.

When to go

December to April has the calmest water and clearest visibility, though the winter trade winds can be strong. Weekends bring local boats in numbers and the beach at Icacos fills. Trips are cancelled in swell.

Honest expectations

There is no shade, no water, no toilet and no lifeguard on any of the cays, so everything comes with you and rubbish goes back. Weekend crowds and music from anchored boats change the character completely. Reef damage from anchoring is visible in places. Sun exposure here catches people out badly.

Nearby

Fajardo is the departure port; Culebra and Vieques are further east.