Queima das Fitas

The Queima das Fitas marks the end of the academic year at Coimbra, and it runs for eight days in May with a structure that has hardened over more than a century. It opens at midnight with the Serenata Monumental on the steps of the old cathedral: thousands of people standing in silence in the dark while student groups sing Coimbra fado - a distinct tradition from Lisbon's, sung by men in the black academic cape and never applauded, only acknowledged by a dry cough. Over the following days come the burning of the ribbons in their faculty colours, the Cortejo, a parade of decorated floats through the city with students in capes and top hats, and eight nights of concerts at the Praça da Canção. Similar weeks are held in Porto, Lisbon and elsewhere, but Coimbra's is the original and the largest.

What you actually see

• The Serenata - midnight fado on the cathedral steps, heard in silence.
• The ribbon burning - faculty colours burned to mark the end of study.
• The Cortejo - a parade of floats with students in black capes and top hats.
• The Coimbra fado - a male academic tradition, acknowledged by a cough, not applause.

When to go

Early to mid May, over eight days. Two days for the Serenata and Cortejo; the full week for the concerts. Book accommodation months ahead.

Honest expectations

Extremely heavy drinking across the whole week, with the disruption and mess that implies. Accommodation is scarce and expensive; the city is full. Concerts are ticketed and sell out. The Serenata requires standing in a crowd for hours in silence.

Nearby

The university and its Joanina library are above; the Baixa and the Mondego are below.