Marvao

Marvao is a village that ran out of room. It occupies the top of a granite ridge in the Serra de Sao Mamede at around eight hundred and sixty metres, and the medieval wall follows the edge of the rock so exactly that the houses stop where the drop begins. The castle at the western end has a keep, a cistern and a wall walk that narrows to the crest, and from it the ground falls away on both sides to olive country, with the Spanish border a few kilometres off. Inside, a few hundred residents, whitewashed houses with granite door frames, a small museum in the old church and streets too steep for coaches.

What you actually see

• The castle keep and cistern - the vaulted water store and the tower at the ridge end.
• The wall walk - a narrow circuit along the crest with drops on both sides.
• The village lanes - whitewashed houses with granite frames and iron balconies.
• The Serra de Sao Mamede - wooded hills and chestnut groves below the ridge.

When to go

Spring and autumn are ideal; the ridge catches wind year round and can sit in cloud when the plain below is clear. Autumn brings chestnuts and a quieter village. Sunrise and sunset are the point - stay the night, because day visitors leave by six and the place changes completely.

Honest expectations

There is very little to do beyond walking the walls and looking out, and an hour can cover it. Services are minimal, with few places to eat and most shut out of season. The approach road is narrow with tight hairpins, parking at the top is scarce, and the wall walk has unprotected edges that rule it out for some.

Nearby

Castelo de Vide is twenty minutes north and Portalegre half an hour west.