Costa Nova

Costa Nova sits on the spit between the Ria de Aveiro and the Atlantic, and its front row of palheiros - wooden houses painted in vertical stripes of red, blue, green or yellow against white - is the image the whole region uses. The houses began as fishermen's stores and shelters for the arte xávega crews who hauled nets from the beach, built cheap in timber and painted with what was to hand, the stripes reportedly helping crews pick out their own building in fog. They were later converted into holiday homes and the striping became a rule rather than a habit. The lagoon side has the boats and a promenade; the ocean side has a long beach with a heavy Atlantic break. Ílhavo's maritime museum nearby covers the Portuguese cod fleet that sailed to Newfoundland, which is the region's other defining story.

What you actually see

• The striped houses - the palheiro row facing the lagoon in vertical colour.
• The origin - fishermen's stores, painted to be identified in fog.
• The two sides - calm lagoon front, open Atlantic beach behind.
• The maritime museum - Ílhavo's account of the cod fleet, nearby.

When to go

May to September. Half a day. Weekday mornings are the only time the striped row is not crowded with photographers.

Honest expectations

The famous row is short - a few dozen houses - and is packed with visitors in season. They are private homes. Parking is very difficult in summer. The ocean beach has strong currents and cold water.

Nearby

Aveiro and the lagoon are across the bridge; Praia da Barra and its lighthouse are north.