Bucaco Forest

Barefoot Carmelites walled this hillside in the seventeenth century and spent two hundred years planting it, protected by papal orders that forbade cutting the trees. What grew is unlike any other Portuguese woodland: Mexican cypresses known here as Bucaco cedars, sequoias, camphor trees, araucarias and a valley of tree ferns kept damp by mist off the ridge. Paths thread past hermit cells and small chapels, and past the Fonte Fria, a long stone staircase down which water runs in a sheet before spreading into a formal pool. At the centre stands a neo-Manueline palace built as a royal retreat, and Cruz Alta on the ridge looks out over the Beira country toward the sea on clear days.

History

Benedictine friars first settled the forest in the 6th century; the Bishops of Coimbra later took it over and in 1628 gave it to the Discalced Carmelites, who built a convent, the walls and the Coimbra Gate, and a papal bull of 1643 threatened to excommunicate anyone who harmed the trees. After religious orders were abolished in 1834 the forest passed to the state forestry service, grew from 90 to 105 hectares, and its convent staircase was remodelled into the Fonte Fria (Wikipedia, Buçaco Forest).

What's there

• The Fonte Fria - water sliding down a long stone staircase into a pool.
• The Valley of Ferns - tree ferns and moss in permanent shade.
• The old cedars - planted specimens now several centuries old.
• Cruz Alta - the ridge viewpoint over the plain toward the coast.

When to go

Spring for fresh growth and full streams, autumn for colour among the exotic species. Mist is common on the ridge and suits the fern valley far better than the viewpoint. Weekends bring coach groups and wedding parties to the palace terrace, so weekday mornings are the quiet slot. Winter is damp underfoot but the evergreen planting keeps the forest dense.

Good to know

Cars pay to enter and parking near the palace fills quickly, so the walk up from Luso is often faster. Paths are steep, gravelled and slippery after rain, and signposting inside the wall is easy to misread. Cruz Alta gives haze rather than a view on most warm days. Facilities inside amount to a couple of kiosks.

Nearby

The spa village of Luso, Coimbra and the Mealhada roast suckling pig country.

Key facts