Leticia and the Colombian Amazon

Leticia sits at the southern tip of Colombia on the Amazon itself, in a narrow wedge of territory that reaches the river between Peru and Brazil, and it can only be reached by plane or by boat, which gives it a properly remote feel despite being a functioning town. It is the base for exploring the Colombian Amazon: boat trips upriver to the lakes at Tarapoto where pink and grey river dolphins surface, walks in the Amacayacu national park through flooded and terra firme forest, canopy walkways, night caiman spotting, and stays in lodges or in Ticuna and Yagua community accommodation. Across the water lie Peru and Brazil, and the three-way border makes for an odd, easy-going frontier town where currencies and languages mix. Every evening thousands of small parrots pour into the trees of the main square in a deafening roost.

What you actually see

• Lake Tarapoto - boat trips to see pink and grey river dolphins.
• Amacayacu National Park - flooded forest, canopy walkways and jungle trails.
• Community stays - Ticuna and Yagua villages along the river.
• The parrot roost - thousands of parakeets filling Leticia's main square at dusk.

When to go

There are two seasons and both work: high water from around December to May lets boats travel deep into flooded forest, while low water from June to October exposes beaches and makes walking easier. It is hot and humid year-round with rain in any month. Community and lodge stays should be arranged in advance.

Honest expectations

It is expensive to reach, with flights from Bogotá the only practical route, and yellow fever vaccination is required for entry, so plan that well ahead. Heat, humidity, insects and rain are constants. Choose community-run or genuinely community-partnered operators, and avoid any attraction offering photographs holding sloths, anacondas or caimans, which are handled and harmed for the purpose.

Nearby

Puerto Nariño, a small car-free river town, is two hours upstream; Brazil and Peru are across the water.