Koscieliska Valley

Koscieliska runs about nine kilometres south into the Western Tatras from Kiry, and unlike the granite east it is limestone - which changes everything about it: the water sinks and reappears, the valley narrows repeatedly into gorges with vertical walls, there are caves in the sides, and there are meadows where shepherding still happens. The track along the floor is flat and wide enough for a horse cart, so the valley is walkable by anyone as far as the Ornak refuge; the gorges - Krakowska, Pyszniowa and the Koscieliska gate - are the set pieces along it. Two caves are open with lamps and marked routes, Mrozna being the lit one. Hala Ornak and Hala Pisana are the grazing meadows with wooden huts where sheep's cheese is sold in season. Above the refuge the trails climb into the Western Tatras proper and become mountain walking.

What you actually see

• Limestone gorges - the valley narrowing repeatedly into vertical-walled gates.
• Show caves - Mroźna lit and marked, others open with lamps.
• Shepherds' huts - working meadows with sheep's cheese sold in season.
• A flat valley track - walkable by anyone as far as the Ornak refuge.

When to go

May to October; the valley floor is doable in most weather. A day.

Honest expectations

The valley floor is busy on summer weekends, though far less so than Morskie Oko. Caves are cold and require care underfoot. Trails above the refuge are proper mountain routes. Winter brings avalanche risk on the upper sections.

Nearby

Chocholowska valley is west; Zakopane is east.