Carbon Market

Carbon has been Cebu's main market for well over a century and it still supplies most of the city. It is not one building but a district: covered halls, alleys of stalls and a spill of vendors onto the surrounding streets, deep in vegetables from the mountain towns, tropical fruit, live crabs, mounds of dried fish and squid, sacks of rice, and a flower section that operates almost as its own market. Trading starts in the small hours when the trucks come down from the highlands, so the freshest hours are before sunrise. Parts of the site are being redeveloped, which has moved vendors around and made the layout even harder to read.

What you actually see

• The dried fish alleys - open sacks of danggit, squid and salted fish, the smell carrying two streets.
• The highland produce - vegetables trucked down overnight from the mountain farms.
• The flower section - garlands and cut flowers sold in bulk, busiest before feast days.
• The fruit stalls - mango, lanzones, rambutan and durian by season, sold by the kilo.

When to go

Between four and seven in the morning, when the deliveries arrive and the market is at full pitch; by midday it is hot, tired and half packed up. Year-round, though the produce shifts with the season. Go with small notes, since changing large ones at a stall is a slow process.

Honest expectations

It is crowded, wet underfoot, and the smell in the dried fish and meat sections is strong enough to end the visit for some people. Pickpocketing is a genuine problem in the crush, so carry nothing in a back pocket and keep a bag in front of you. The redevelopment has left construction hoardings and displaced stalls. Prices quoted to obvious visitors are higher; ask twice.

Nearby

The Basilica del Santo Nino and Fort San Pedro are both a short ride; Colon Street is walkable.