El Misti

El Misti stands directly behind Arequipa, a cone symmetrical enough that the city has built its identity around the outline. It reaches 5,822 metres and its crater still gives off sulphurous gas. The standard ascent takes two days: a drive to a trailhead at around 3,400 metres, a long walk up loose volcanic ground to a camp near 4,600, then a start well before dawn for the summit on scree that gives way underfoot. There is no ice and no climbing involved, which makes it one of the more approachable peaks of this height anywhere, but the altitude does the work instead. From the top the city sits directly below.

What you actually see

• The crater - a double crater with sulphur vents still active at the summit.
• The view over Arequipa - the whole city laid out below, with Chachani alongside.
• The scree slopes - kilometres of loose volcanic ground that define both climb and descent.
• High camp - a night at around 4,600 metres on open ground with the city lights below.

When to go

April to November is the dry season and the standard climbing window; the wet months bring snow on the upper cone and heavy cloud. Acclimatise in Arequipa for several days first, and ideally do a lower walk before attempting it. Summit attempts start around one in the morning to be back down before the afternoon wind gets up.

Honest expectations

It is a slog rather than a climb: hours of loose scree that slides back under each step, no technical interest and a real chance of altitude sickness above 5,000 metres. Nights at high camp are very cold and windy. Plenty of people turn back. The descent is fast but batters the knees and fills boots with grit. Guides are effectively obligatory.

Nearby

Arequipa is at the foot of the mountain, and Chachani is the neighbouring and slightly higher cone.