Chivay

Chivay sits at the eastern end of the Colca valley at 3,630 metres, and it is the practical base for the canyon: the tourist ticket for the valley is sold here, the buses from Arequipa terminate here, and the standard itinerary is to arrive in the afternoon, soak in the La Calera hot springs outside town, sleep, and leave at five in the morning for the Cruz del Cóndor. The town has a market, a square with a church, restaurants running folkloric music at dinner, and a good deal of tourist infrastructure for its size. The road in from Arequipa crosses the Patapampa pass at about 4,900 metres, where vehicles stop at a viewpoint over the volcanoes - a rapid ascent that gives many passengers altitude symptoms before they even reach Chivay. Terraces, some pre-Inca, cover the valley slopes around.

What you actually see

• The base function - ticket office, bus terminal and hotels for the whole valley.
• The market and square - a working Colca town centre.
• La Calera - thermal pools a short ride outside town.
• The Patapampa approach - the 4,900-metre pass crossed on the way in.

When to go

April to November. An overnight is standard before the early condor departure. The road from Arequipa takes three to four hours.

Honest expectations

At 3,630 metres, after crossing a 4,900-metre pass from sea-level Arequipa in a few hours - altitude sickness is very common on the first night. Cold after dark. The town is functional rather than attractive. Restaurant folklore shows are aimed at tour groups.

Nearby

La Calera hot springs are outside town; Yanque and the Cruz del Cóndor are west.