Cabanaconde

Cabanaconde sits at 3,290 metres at the western end of the Colca valley, past the Cruz del Cóndor, and it is where people get off the bus to walk into the canyon rather than look at it. The standard route drops about 1,200 metres in three to four hours to the river, crosses, and climbs to Sangalle - the oasis, a green pocket of palms and pools on the canyon floor with basic lodges - then climbs back out the next morning, a three-hour ascent that is genuinely hard and is usually started before dawn to avoid the heat; mules can be hired. Longer routes take three days through the villages of Llahuar, Belén and Tapay. The village itself is quiet, with terraces around it, a colonial church, and dress and wititi tradition still strong. Accommodation is basic and cheap compared with Chivay.

What you actually see

• The descent - about 1,200 metres down to the Colca river in three to four hours.
• Sangalle - the oasis on the canyon floor with palms, pools and basic lodges.
• The climb out - a three-hour ascent, usually started before dawn.
• The village - terraces, a colonial church and strong local tradition.

When to go

April to November. Two to three days for the canyon walk. Start descents and ascents early - the canyon floor is very hot by midday.

Honest expectations

The climb out is hard: 1,200 metres of ascent finishing at 3,290 metres, and people underestimate it every day. Little shade on the trail. Lodges at Sangalle are basic with cold water. Mules must be arranged in advance.

Nearby

The Cruz del Cóndor is east on the road; Chivay is at the other end of the valley.