Cosala

Cosala was founded in the 1560s on silver and gold, and its centre survives as one of Sinaloa's few colonial ensembles: cobbled lanes and whitewashed houses with red-tile roofs, wrought-iron balconies, a plaza with a kiosk and enormous laurels, and the eighteenth-century church of Santa Ursula holding the high ground. A small mining museum in a colonial house tells the story that made the town and then abandoned it. The reason for a two-day stay is the country around: Cosala sits in the foothills of the Sierra Madre Occidental within the Meseta de Cacaxtla and Sierra de Cosala protected areas, and excursions run to the Vado Hondo river pools, the Nuestra Señora dam for boats and fishing, and the hot spring at Palmar. Wildlife is unexpectedly rich - jaguars are present in the reserve, and birding is strong. The town is quiet, prices are low, and it stays largely a domestic destination. Sinaloa's countryside has had periods of security concern; travelling by day on main routes and checking local advice is prudent.

What you actually see

• The cobbled centre - white walls, red tile and iron balconies.
• Santa Ursula church - the eighteenth-century parish on the rise.
• The mining museum - the silver story in a colonial house.
• The river country - pools, dam and forest around the town.

When to go

November to April for dry, mild weather; summer brings heat and rain to the foothills. Weekends bring domestic visitors, weekdays are very quiet.

Honest expectations

Services are simple and largely cash-based. Excursions need local guides or a car. Ask locally about current conditions on rural roads before setting off.

Nearby

The Sierra de Cosala reserve surrounds the town; Mazatlan's coast lies two and a half hours southwest.