Mazatlán

Mazatlán has two faces: a long strip of hotels along the Zona Dorada beaches, and, several kilometres south, a nineteenth-century centro histórico that was derelict for decades and has been steadily restored into one of the most attractive old towns on the Pacific coast, with a neoclassical theatre, a cathedral of yellow towers and a plaza of terraces. Between them runs the malecón, around eight and a half kilometres of seafront promenade - among the longest anywhere, and the often-quoted 21 km counts the whole connected coastal road - walked and cycled at all hours and lined with bronze sculptures. The city holds one of the largest carnivals in the world each February. Offshore, three islands make a nature reserve, and the fishing fleet lands shrimp that the city eats in quantity.

What you actually see

• The malecón - around eight and a half kilometres of seafront promenade, one of the longest in the world.
• The centro histórico - the restored old town, theatre and cathedral.
• Carnival - one of the largest in the world, held in February.
• The cliff divers - divers off the rocks at Glorieta Sánchez Taboada.

When to go

November to April is the dry season and the high season, with carnival in February filling the city entirely; summer is hot, humid and brings the hurricane season. Sunset on the malecón is the daily event. Book far ahead for carnival week.

Honest expectations

The Zona Dorada is a conventional resort strip with timeshare touts, and the old town, several kilometres away, is where the character is; where you stay shapes the trip completely. Sinaloa has a reputation that makes some travellers hesitate, though the tourist areas of the city itself are ordinary and busy. Summer humidity is heavy.

Nearby

The colonial mining towns of Copala and Concordia are inland; the Copper Canyon railway starts up the coast at Los Mochis.