Caraz

Caraz sits at 2,270 metres at the north end of the Callejón de Huaylas, eight hundred metres lower than Huaraz and correspondingly warmer, with a colonial square, flowering trees and a slower pace - it markets itself as Caraz Dulzura, sweet Caraz, for its manjar blanco, the caramelised milk confection made and sold here in quantity. It survived the 1970 earthquake far better than the towns further south, so more of the old fabric stands. As a base it works for Laguna Parón up the valley, the Cañón del Pato to the north, the Santa Cruz trek from Cashapampa, and Alpamayo, and it is quieter and cheaper than Huaraz with fewer agencies. The lower altitude is a mixed blessing: more comfortable to sleep at, less useful for acclimatising. Nearby Huaylas and the Puya stands of the Cordillera Negra are within reach.

What you actually see

• The square - a colonial centre that survived the 1970 earthquake.
• The manjar blanco - the caramelised milk confection made and sold throughout.
• The lower altitude - 2,270 metres, warmer and easier than Huaraz.
• The trailheads - access to Parón, Santa Cruz, Alpamayo and the Cañón del Pato.

When to go

May to September. Two to four days as a base. Colectivos run frequently to Huaraz and up to Cashapampa and Parón.

Honest expectations

Fewer agencies and less choice of guides than Huaraz - some trips need arranging there. Sleeping at 2,270 metres does little for acclimatisation before high routes. Limited restaurant choice. Quiet in the evenings.

Nearby

Laguna Parón is up the valley; the Cañón del Pato is north; Yungay and Huaraz are south.