Fuerte San Lorenzo

San Lorenzo stands on a cliff a hundred metres above the mouth of the Chagres, which was the river route inland toward the silver road, and that made it a target: it was attacked and burned repeatedly across two centuries, most famously in 1671 when Henry Morgan took it as the opening move of a raid across the isthmus. The fort that survives is largely eighteenth century, cut into the rock with a dry moat, vaulted magazines and cannon still on the ramparts, and it is inscribed by UNESCO along with Portobelo. It sits inside a protected forest, so howler monkeys and toucans are often louder than the visitors.

What you actually see

• The clifftop position - a hundred metres above the Chagres mouth.
• The dry moat and vaults - cut into the rock behind the walls.
• The cannon - still on the ramparts facing the river.
• The forest around it - protected, with howlers and toucans.

When to go

December to April is the dry season and the road better. Mornings are cooler and quieter. Getting there means crossing the canal at the Gatún locks, where the road is held for ship transits, so allow extra time.

Honest expectations

The site has been on the UNESCO in-danger list because of erosion, vegetation and lack of maintenance, and parts have been fenced off. The road crosses the locks and can be closed for transits with no notice. Colón nearby has a serious crime problem; go direct and do not linger in the city.

Nearby

The Gatún and Agua Clara locks are on the way; Portobelo is east along the coast.