Castel Sant'Angelo

Hadrian built this as a mausoleum for himself and his successors, finished in 139, a drum on a square base by the Tiber. It became a fortress when Aurelian's walls incorporated it, then a papal stronghold, then a prison, and each function left layers: the spiral ramp Hadrian's builders cut, Renaissance papal apartments with frescoed loggias, cells that held Cellini and Cagliostro. The Passetto di Borgo, an eight-hundred-metre covered walkway on top of a wall, connects it to the Vatican and was used by Clement VII to escape the sack of Rome in 1527. The bronze angel on top marks a vision of the archangel sheathing his sword.

What you actually see

• Hadrian's spiral ramp - the original second-century approach to the tomb chamber.
• The papal apartments - frescoed Renaissance rooms high in the drum.
• The Passetto di Borgo - the covered escape corridor to the Vatican.
• The terrace - a rooftop view over the Tiber to St Peter's dome.

When to go

April to June and September to October; the castle opens year-round and closes Mondays in some seasons. The Passetto is open on limited dates and needs separate booking.

Honest expectations

The Passetto is only accessible on specific tours and dates. Queues build from mid-morning in season. The interior is a warren of stairs with limited signage.

Nearby

The Vatican lies west; Piazza Navona is east across the river.