Castillo San Felipe del Morro

El Morro stands on the headland where San Juan bay meets the Atlantic, begun in the sixteenth century and built up over two hundred years into six levels of ramparts, tunnels, ramps and sentry boxes rising some forty metres above the water. Its guns commanded the only channel into the harbour, and it held off repeated attacks; the walls are metres thick and the garitas, the domed stone sentry boxes on the corners, have become the island's emblem, appearing on number plates and souvenirs everywhere. It is part of a World Heritage listing that also covers the larger Castillo San Cristóbal on the landward side and the city walls between them. In front of the fort spreads a huge green esplanade where families fly kites every weekend.

What you actually see

• The six levels - ramps, tunnels and gun platforms rising above the channel.
• The garitas - the domed stone sentry boxes that became the island's symbol.
• The great lawn - the esplanade where San Juan flies kites at weekends.
• Castillo San Cristóbal - the larger landward fortress, on the same ticket.

When to go

December to April is the dry season and the most comfortable; the fort is exposed with almost no shade, so mornings are far better than midday. Weekend afternoons on the lawn, with kites everywhere, are the most enjoyable time to see it in use rather than just visit it.

Honest expectations

It is entirely exposed to sun and wind, with steep ramps and stairs between levels and little shade anywhere, so water and a hat matter. Cruise ship days fill the old town and the fort. The lower levels close earlier than the upper. Combining both forts in one day is a lot of walking in heat.

Nearby

Old San Juan's blue cobbled streets begin at the gate; La Fortaleza and the cathedral are minutes away.