Victoria and the Cittadella

Gozo's capital wraps around a rocky hill crowned by the Cittadella, a fortified citadel whose walls have protected the island's population since medieval times - until the eighteenth century every Gozitan was required to spend the night inside for safety against corsair raids. The walls have been restored and the rampart walk gives an unbroken circle of views over the whole island, from Ta' Pinu basilica in the west to the salt pans in the north. Inside are the baroque cathedral with its famous trompe l'oeil painted dome, small museums, and quiet lanes of stone houses, some still ruined.

What you actually see

• The rampart walk - the full circuit of views across Gozo.
• The cathedral's painted dome - a flat ceiling that convincingly reads as a dome.
• The citadel museums - archaeology, folklore and the old prison.
• Victoria's It-Tokk square - the market and cafes below the walls.

When to go

Spring and autumn are ideal, with green countryside in spring after the rains. Summer is hot on the exposed ramparts, so go early or late. The citadel is floodlit at night and lovely in the evening. Gozo's village festas run through summer with fireworks visible from the walls.

Honest expectations

Getting to Gozo means the ferry from Cirkewwa, which adds an hour or more each way with queues in summer - many visitors underestimate this and try to do too much in a day. The citadel is compact and can be seen in a couple of hours. Steps and cobbles throughout. Museums keep short hours and some close early in winter.

Nearby

Ta' Pinu basilica, Ramla Bay's red sand and the Dwejra coast on Gozo's west.