Neelum Valley

The Neelum river runs for around two hundred kilometres through a steep valley of pine and deodar forest, and the road that follows it climbs from Muzaffarabad past a sequence of villages, each with its own character: Keran on the water, Sharda with the ruins of an ancient centre of learning on a mound above the river, Kel where the valley narrows and the high routes begin, and Taobat near the head. The forest is genuine and dense, the river runs fast and green, and side valleys lead up to lakes and meadows including Ratti Gali and Arang Kel. Wooden houses with shingled roofs, terraced maize fields and hanging bridges over the river define the settlements. It is among the most visited valleys in the country during the summer, and the road, improved in recent years, is busy in July and August.

What you actually see

• The river valley - fast green water between steep forested slopes.
• Sharda ruins - the ancient mound and remains above the river.
• Forest villages - wooden houses, terraces and hanging bridges.
• Side valleys - routes up to Ratti Gali, Arang Kel and the high meadows.

When to go

May to October; snow closes the upper valley in winter and the road beyond Kel opens late. July and August are peak season with heavy traffic and full guesthouses. June and September give the same scenery with far fewer people.

Honest expectations

The valley road is narrow, winding and prone to landslides, and journeys take much longer than distances suggest. Accommodation ranges from decent to very basic and fills in peak weeks. Some upper sections require permits or registration and rules change, so check locally. Mobile coverage is patchy.

Nearby

Arang Kel and Ratti Gali are reached from the valley; Muzaffarabad is at its foot.