Puelo Valley

The Puelo runs west out of Argentina through a valley of temperate rainforest and lakes to the Reloncavi estuary, and the road up it stops - beyond Llanada Grande the way east is on horse trails, boats across three lakes, and eventually a border crossing on foot or horseback to Argentina, which is how the settlers here have always moved. Hydroelectric schemes on the river have been proposed repeatedly and the valley's residents, organised as Puelo Patagonia and others, have fought them off, arguing that the dams would flood the ground they live on for power sent north. The valley remains undammed.

What's there

• A valley with no through road - horse trails and boats beyond Llanada Grande.
• Temperate rainforest and lakes - the length of the valley.
• A dam fight won by residents - schemes proposed and defeated.
• A crossing to Argentina - on foot or horseback, as it always was.

When to go

December to March. Several days.

Things to know

Getting into the upper valley means arranged horses or boats, not a drive. Rain is frequent. Accommodation is family lodgings. The border crossing is a genuine expedition, not a formality.

Nearby

Cochamo and its valley are north; the Reloncavi estuary is west.